This being said, just putting everything onto a table or night stand probably isn't a good approach to tidying up. It'll just look very crowded and not exactly pleasant. And that's where this tutorial kicks in.
Just imagine creating a spot for all that clutter on (and maybe even around) your night stand. One that will not take up any precious floor space and comes in extremely handy if you have to reach something directly from your bed.
This by the way also makes a great gift for people of any age and it's actually a pretty fast and easy to make - you won't even need a measuring tool!
So here's how it's done:
1. Gather everything you want to store inside your caddy and lay it out on your bed. Make two or three rows if you have items of varying sizes. Put the small items into the first row, bigger ones into the middle and the biggest in the back.
2. Organize the items in an order that is useful. Bring the items you'll need during sleep somewhere near the head end of the bed, those you probably won't need closer to the foot end. 3. Group your small items, you don't want to sew a pocket exclusively for your ear buds, so you could group them with your glasses or charger.
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| Step 1-5 |
5. Space your items out. You can use the whole length (or width) or your bed if necessary, so don't be afraid of using more space than necessary.
6. Now choose your fabric. Stiff cotton fabrics work great for this project while stretchy fabrics might be a little more tricky to sew. I chose to use some fabric from old tablecloths which I don't really like. This project can be an extreme fabric waster depending on how many things you want to store, so I would recommend using inexpensive fabric. The back piece of fabric will have to hold the whole caddy in place by shoving the excess under the mattress, so the length has to be as long as possible and at least twice the height of your caddy (or once if you don't want a huge pocket in the back) plus a few inches to tuck it under the mattress.
7. Cut your fabric to the width of your caddy (which is a bit more than the width of the items spread out, just imagine you would put another pocket on either side, leave enough space at the edges).
8. If necessary, hem the top edge of your fabric. As I used old tablecloths, the edges were already neat.
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| Step 6-10 |
10. Decide on the height of your front and middle pockets. I eyeballed it out and added about three inches because the pockets won't lay flat when they are filled. One inch more would have been sufficient though, but I didn't want to risk that my items might not fit in. Cut the fabric to size.
11. Sew the bottom edge of your front and middle pockets together with both good sides facing up, so you basically sew a good side to a wrong side. Sew it just the way it's pictured in the image for step 6-10. If you only have two layers of pockets, skip this step and the next and go straight to step 13.
12. Sew a straight line from the bottom edge to the mark of each pocket that only exists in the front and doesn't form a pocket in the middle row. In my case, this was for example between the key on the bottom left and the hand lotion.
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| Step 13 |
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| Step 14 |
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| After step 14 |
15. Fold all the rows down so that the pockets are on the inside and sew along the two side edges. Turn it right side out and hem the side edges of the back piece if necessary. If your caddy isn't as wide as mine is, you might decide to be done now with one large pocket in the back. For mine, I needed to divide the back pocket at least once near the middle because the huge back pocket would have dropped all the way to the floor and I wouldn't be able to grab my items easily that way. To do this, choose a long seam that goes through the front and middle pocket layer and sew along this line through the back layer as well, making the new seam all the way to the upper corner of the back pocket as well.
16. Cut all the thread ends. At this point, I eyeballed how much excess fabric I want to be tucked under the mattress. I wanted it to "cover" about half of my mattress's width because I'd be filling lots of heavy objects inside (like my laptop and my 3DS consoles). That is about 20 inches (50 cm). If your caddy won't hold too many heavy objects you can shorten this part of course. I'd say that the excess should be about as long as your caddy's height. I made sure that my backing fabric would be more than sufficiently long before I started. As I'm a bit lazy, I didn't hem the raw edge at the very top after cutting the excess at the top of the caddy because that edge will never be seen anyway since it's hidden under the mattress (for a gift, I would hem that edge though).
17. Speaking about it, now is the perfect time to install your caddy. If your mattress is heavy, get someone to help you hold it up while you spread the excess of the caddy under the mattress. Lighter mattresses can often be flipped up against the wall so you could do this on your own. Lay your mattress down again, making sure your caddy doesn't slip too much while doing so. And that's it. Now you can put your pillow and blanket back onto the bed and fill your caddy.
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| My finished caddy |






This is such an amazing tutorial, and I really like how there is an emphasis on the preparation for making the bedside caddy which includes the ordering of the items. The instructions are also so detailed and the pictures give an excellent step by step representation of how the item is made.
ReplyDeleteI’m so impressed by how the bedside caddy looks in the final picture and while it invariably saves space, it also looks stylish as well. Congratulations on creating this guide and making such a stunning bedside caddy. Both are very well done.